basil bonsai

April 12, 2021 Post a Comment

Bonsai basil? Tips on herbal bonsai - Gardening & Landscaping Stack ExchangeStack Exchange Network The Stack Exchange network is composed of 176 Q ConA communities, including, the largest and most trusted online community for developers to learn, share their knowledge and build their careers. their communities Gardening " Stack Exchange land capturing is a question and answer site for gardeners and landscapers. It only takes a minute to register. TeamsQ A for Work Connect and share knowledge within a single location that is structured and easy to search. I have a 5-year-old basil plant growing in my window. Since I don't know much about eating, it's been a little hobby of mine to squeeze it and keep it alive. My idea was to create some kind of bonsai basil. From the 5-year-old seams to be a little out of control, due to the poor trimming and pruning, I've made some clones where I've tried to be a little harder when I prune it. One of these clones is about 2 years old. Here are some photos: My question is, can I bonsai this plant? And does anyone have any advice or experience doing this? As you can see, I have already tried to mould it as a small tree, but my fear is that over a few years I will not be able to keep it that way, since the plant is growing constantly. So I could eventually end up looking like my 5-year bass, which has grown too high with too many long and empty stems. Thank you for any advice or suggestion :)10 1 Response 1 Bonsai means a tree in a pot and therefore boasts a perennial woody. It's remarkable, what you've done with the basil. As you've done this, you're likely to be able to "bonsai it" by applying some basic principles. Each plant grows, so there must be a technique to keep the canopy of foliage more or less constant. This means developing ramification: as your view moves from the trunk, a branch becomes two, those two become four, and so on. As the plant grows it spreads from the tips and increases the container. With branching, segments can be removed from time to time, so the canopy remains the same size (on average) with time. Of course, the branching can be three or four, but this often leads to unbearing, dense nodes and an extremely dense canopy. An extremely dense canopy means that no light comes inside and therefore there will be no leaves inside. So, when you cut yourself, he'll create a hole where there's no foliage. On the other hand, if the canopy gets thin, the light can enter and can develop short replacement branches before cutting segments of branches that have come too long. As the light reaches the inside, the pruning (backcut) must release latent buds, making new shoots and foliage closer to the trunk. With woody plants, the stems can be wired (temporally wrapped with wire) to mould them and position foliage where you want them to make a pleasant image. This is very difficult to do with herbaceous stems, so it is likely that it will only be able to use the 'clip and grow' technique to create 'movement' in stems (unlike static and straight stems). Apart from the vines, a thick stem more quickly letting it spread uninhibited with all the foliage that it can endure. Then it is cut 'hardy' (to a fraction of its length) and let it grow again, leading it by removing shoots/shoots that go in the 'wrong' directions. This fat 'stub' will not thicken until the new growth approaches the same thickness, at which point you cut it back in a similar way and start the process to eventually create a moving stem whose thickness is cracked much faster and like the scale of your creation. The last thing I can think for your technical toolbox is to find out how to create better ramification. There is, of course, the standard of simply decapitating a branch. With Japanese maple, for example, it is better to keep two leaves. With satsuki azaleas and woodworkers, on the other hand, it is better to keep only the terminal leaves and remove all the leaves between them and the trunk - many of the axillary shoots will be released into new shoots. And, of course, there is a complete defoliation - the removal of all the leaves by cutting through their petioles, individually, and the elimination of the apical terminal. This can also be done by cutting back to remove all the leaves in a flap. You'll have to experiment to see how this works. Since the branches are largely autonomous, you can try one treatment in one branch and another in another branch to answer this question in short order (frankly, I would have a hard time not to defoliate and eat the cuts!). Basil as bonsai - WOW! There is an abundance of videos that show these techniques that apply to trees, as well as blogs and websites of which is a reliable resource. But, you go bravely where the man has not gone before, so you will find nothing directly about the bonsai basil. Your answer Thank you for providing a response to Gardening " Landscaping Stack Exchange! But avoid... To learn more, see our . Subscribe or Post as GuestRequired, but never shown Post as GuestRequired, but never shown By clicking on "Post Your Answer", you accept our, and Isn't that the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or . LinkedRelated Subscribe to RSS To subscribe to this RSS feed, copy and paste this URL into your RSS feed. site design / logo © 2021 Stack Exchange Inc; contributions of users with low license . rev 2021.4.12.39053 Your privacy By clicking "Accept all cookies", you agree that Stack Exchange can store cookies on your device and disclose information according to our .

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